Far and Away: The Most Unforgettable Irish Destination

Ballyfin Demesne

At the foot of the Slieve Bloom Mountains, sit a pair of iron clad gates, noticeably old and weathered, that shadow all but a sliver of view of a long, curving dirt road and what lay past. Just beyond the gates, an expansive horizon opens before you and green abounds everywhere the eye can see. The grandeur of a centuries-old estate in the distance takes center-stage in this tableau on the Irish countryside. As you continue down the long, narrow dirt road you approach a beautiful lone tree, welcoming you to a bygone era. And then, as if waiting for the perfect moment, the manor appears…

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Infinitely regal and rooted in stone, it’s as if it was always a part of the natural landscape. The stone mansion is perched atop a soft-rolling grass knoll that exacerbates its scale. At first glance, it appears larger than life, more of a fairytale dwelling than a modern day luxury hotel destination. 

As we move closer, we see the impeccably-turned out staff lined up on the front steps. Albeit looking quite small by comparison, they stand upright and wave to greet us: this is Ballyfin. 

Rooted in History: The Story of Ballyfin

Ballyfin was built in the 1820s for Sir Charles Coote by architects Sir Richard and William Morrison. Sprawling 614 acres, the demesne was settled in ancient times and has been home to a string of Irish ancestry: the O’Mores, the Crosbys, the Poles, the Wellesley-Poles, and the Cootes. At the dawn of Irish Independence, it was sold to the Patrician Brothers who converted the mansion into a school. But more recently, after nine years of holistic renovations, the doors of Ballyfin reopened in May 2011. And the result is a 5-star luxury country house hotel that rivals any venue I have visited before—or since. 

From the moment you arrive, you are transported to a time and place where refined leisure, the appreciation of nature and the art of socializing are still valued practices for a true life of enjoyment.

The Journey

Ballyfin Demesne is comfortably settled in the rural county of Laois, Ireland at the foot of the Slieve Bloom Mountains. It’s just over an hour’s scenic drive to Ballyfin, southwest from the Dublin airport. If you’re looking at a long, international journey to Ireland be sure to check out my tried-and-true tips for avoiding jet lag.

Inside the Ballyfin Mansion

The experience of arriving at Ballyfin is exactly as we expected: regal. Walking up the steps of the manor is like taking a trip back in time. We receive a warm welcome from the house staff and they work quickly to collect our luggage and escort everyone inside to the warmth of the lobby. When you cross the threshold into the grand Entrance Hall, you are immediately transported into the historical significance of this great estate and the slower, but elegant, ways of the Irish countryside—something which has always captivated me. 

The mansion itself has the presence (and art collection!) of a museum, without any of the stuffiness. Guests feel perfectly at home—and perfectly surrounded by grandeur. The property is clearly meant for enjoyment, with green rubber Wellington boots in every size lined up near the front door, inviting you to slip some on and head out into the elements to explore. Plenty of leisure activities are equally met by the rich history of the mansion’s collection of art. The portraits of generations of residents greet you in the Stair Hall as you climb the grand staircase, while works by contemporary Irish artists decorate the Ballyfin Bar. The fireplace crackles and the beautiful furnishings call for you to take a closer look over your evening nightcap. It’s very easy to unwind at Ballyfin. 

The days are filled with exploration and excellent cuisine. Evenings are reserved for après adventure stories over glasses of brandy. It’s everything you would expect—and more—from an Irish countryside manor.

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What To Do at Ballyfin

While Ballyfin does not want for activities and occupation—boating, fishing and archery are all readily available—our speed was taking in all the nature and beautiful gardens that abound. The grounds are full of wildlife! Catching sight of a fox chasing the red squirrels or trying to identify one of the many wild bird species that inhabit the property kept us plenty busy. And though they do have a fitness facility on site, we opted for picturesque runs through the property and woodlands. 

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Dream Destination

On our first trip to Ballyfin Demesne, we photographed one of my favorite weddings to date. It was the multi-day destination wedding of Jo and Andrew. It took place on this beautiful property with some of the most thoughtful events I’ve seen incorporated into a wedding. With just twenty uniquely decorated rooms and suites, the entire weekend felt like an intimate affair. 

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Setting the Scene

Special family events were planned before the entire party arrived on the property. Jo and Andrew played with resident chickens in the fields with her youngest siblings. The same chickens that provide the eggs at breakfast! Jo shared a very special bottle of Chateau Margeaux with her father on the first day, while overlooking a hillside Water Cascade. An intimate family dinner was shared the first night in one of the many dining rooms, followed by drinks in the Library. The Library is the largest of the mansion’s reception rooms and was the perfect setting for a post-dinner round of cocktails early in the weekend. Storytelling about the bride and groom around the fireplace with the closest of family and friends makes for a memorable way to begin the festivities. And does it get more romantic than a private, tranquil boat ride on the lake just before the other guests arrive?

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The main events for all the guests were equally as thoughtful. They welcomed their guests at one of the estate’s more remote cabins with Whiskey and hot chocolate. The beautiful rehearsal dinner was enjoyed in one of the main dining rooms, with views of the cascade. A particularly meaningful pre-ceremony luncheon was held outdoors beside the lake for the bride and groom and their wedding party before the nuptials. 

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The stunning, candlelit ceremony took place in the cast-iron Conservatory. With a secret entrance from a bookshelf in the library, the Conservatory was an impossibly romantic and mysterious venue for the ceremony. Built in the 1850s and originally conceived for tropical plants and vegetation, it now serves as a venue with the best of everything: expansive outdoor views with the added protection from the elements. Something this photographer can especially appreciate.

Flowing through the evening’s events from the Conservatory to the Ballroom to the Portico, with champagne in hand, Ballyfin had a space for every celebratory occasion.

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When Do We Eat?

As a self-proclaimed foodie who is married to an amateur chef, all of this ballyhoo would not be complete without an endorsement of the Ballyfin kitchen and their chefs. The care and love they so clearly take in serving their guests is evident in the exquisite preparations of their local offerings. The eggs are from the Ballyfin hens; the honey is collected from their own bee hives; and the fruit, herbs and vegetables are harvested from their own gardens.

What they don’t grow or make themselves is sourced locally, sometimes as near as seven miles away. These local provisions not only enhance the magic of dining at Ballyfin, but the flavors of freshly-caught fish off the south coast or local butter on warm sourdough bread make for a simply delicious experience. And though the country is traditionally known for its meat-and-potatoes (heavy on the potatoes) approach to diet, Ballyfin couldn’t have been more gracious or accustomed to accommodating vegetarians like ourselves.

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A Grand Time

Of all the destinations I have had the pleasure of photographing, very few can compete with the old world charm and grandeur of this country house mansion and demesne, situated in the heart of Ireland. Its sprawling, green grounds and elaborate preservation of time and history create a setting for refined romance that goes unmatched in my book. It is one of the best 5-star luxury country house hotels in the world, and certainly—in Ireland. If you’re looking to plan an adventurous honeymoon or a romantic getaway, or to tie the knot (an actual Irish tradition), the grandeur of Ballyfin Demesne will not disappoint.

Its magic continues to beacon to those with an old soul, a romantic spirit and a taste for the refined. It is one of the many gems that will continue to make Ireland one of my favorite places in the world to visit—and always, to photograph.

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Experience Jo and Andrew’s full wedding weekend in five parts in our Journal: 

Ireland Destination Wedding: Part One
Ireland Destination Wedding: Part Two
Ireland Destination Wedding: Part Three
Ireland Destination Wedding: Part Four
Ireland Destination Wedding: Part Five